How I Made a Crop Top for under $20
The weather is finally starting to warm up and I am so ready to ditch the overcoat and bust out the summer wardrobe! Today I’m going to walk you through how I made a crop top for under $20 with a vintage sheet and a vintage sewing pattern. In this tutorial I’ll provide step by step instructions for the pattern, lots of tips, and how to alter the pattern into a crop top so that you can sew along with me.
Materials
Vintage Pattern - I’m obsessed with easy to sew patterns from the 1960s and 1970s because they are so quick. I can make this crop top in an afternoon and have a whole new wardrobe by the weekend! I used vintage Butterick pattern 3286 in style C for this project and shortened the hem to make the top a crop, which I will show you how to do below.
Though the pattern is vintage, I was able to find it available on places like ebay and etsy. Here are a few links to the pattern for purchase:
Vintage Sheets - Sewing with sheets is really no different than using fabric. Sheets are the perfect weight for most sewing projects AND they don’t wrinkle!
My mom found this vintage sheet in a thrift store for under $5, and part of the sheet was too worn. Luckily there was plenty of salvageable material from it to make a dress and this crop top!
Tips
I went rogue when laying out the pieces of the pattern onto the fabric because I had to piece together the back of my top. For this pattern, as long as you place the right sides of the pattern facing up, and for printed fabric make sure the print is running the right direction, you should be good!
The pattern will have notches that are represented by a triangle along the edge of the pattern. Clip out a triangle on your fabric to match the notches in the positions as specified on your pattern. These notches help you to align the pattern pieces together later when you are sewing seams together.
The fabric lining will sit inside the garment. Make sure the finished hem side of the lining is facing out toward your body once the top is assembled.
Try the top on as you work to make sure it is fitting properly. You can always adjust any stitching as needed.
Measure and adjust your darts so that they sit fitted to your shape.
Inseams should be sewn at 5/8” unless specified otherwise.
After I cut out my fabric, I realized I had misplaced the directions for this pattern (oops!). When I got to adding the lining, I had to rip seams about a million times before I finally consulted youtube and found this super helpful video from Sew Aldo DIY - a life saver if you are struggling with the lining.
More Sewing Projects
How I Made a Crop Top for Under $20
Supplies
Butterick pattern 3286 in your size
Vintage sheet or fabric of choice
Sewing Machine ( I have a Kenmore that is no longer for sale)
Iron
Fusible Interfacing (a small amount)
Fabric Scissors (I have Gingher scissors)
Matching thread & bobbin
Directions
Prep & cut out your fabric and fusible interfacing. Wash your fabric. Iron any wrinkles out of your pattern. Lay the pattern out onto your fabric and pin in place according to the diagram in the instructions. Cut out pattern. Mark notches on your fabric as specified on the pattern (see tips for more detail).
--> Adjust the Length to a Crop Top
Measure the length of your torso with a soft measuring tape. Starting from your shoulder, pull the measuring tape down to where you want the crop top to end on your torso. Add 1 1/2” to that measurement to account for the hem. For example, if my measurement is 13” then my final measurement will be 14 1/2”.
On your pattern front and back main pieces, start at the shoulder and measure down toward where the hem will be. Mark your final measurement and make a straight line horizontally across both main pattern pieces at this measurement. Fold the pattern on this line. Now you’ve turned the pattern into a crop top so when you place it on your fabric you won’t waste any fabric.
Cut out the fusible interfacing to fit along the collar of the fabric lining as specified in the instructions. Use an iron (set on the setting for your fabric type) to press the fusible interfacing onto the fabric lining.
Staystitch the collar of each piece (the front and back pieces and the front and back interfacing).
Hem the fabric lining. Fold the fabric lining about 1/4” under, then press and stitch down the hem.
Sew darts into the front piece. Fold the darts on the inside of the front piece so that the edge of the top on both sides is straight and pin into place. Adjust the dart placement as needed to fit your shape. Sew darts and press them down with an iron.
Sew the right and left shoulder of the front to the corresponding shoulder of the back. Repeat with the lining. Press seams open.
Sew the lining to the top around the neckline. Line up notches and pin into place. Stitch around the neckline. Trim the inseam to about 1/4” and make notches at the curves to help the seam lay flat. Iron the seam toward the lining and stitch the lining and seam allowance together close to seam.
--> Check point!
The next part is a little tricky so take a moment to try on your top to make sure everything is fitting properly.
Sew the armhole of the facing to the armhole of the top. Lay the top out with the right sides of the front and back facing up (the lining should be underneath). Starting from one armhole side, roll the fabric up towards the other armhole. Stop before rolling it up all the way. Roll the exposed armhole of the top back the other way towards the roll of fabric and flip it around so that the front fabric and lining right sides together.
Pin in place.
Sew the armhole to the lining, removing the pins as you go.
Now turn the fabric right side out by pulling one end through the shoulder. Repeat the process with the other armhole.
Once you have both armholes sewn, trim the inseams to about 1/4” and make notches at the curves to help the seam lay flat. Iron the seam toward the lining and stitch the lining and seam allowance together close to seam.
Next, sew the side seams together. Place front and back right sides together and line up the side seams at notches. Pin in place.
Sew the side seam all the way up. Press seam open.
Press armhole seam down and tack in place at the seam with a hand stitch.
The last step is to hem the bottom edge of the top. Fold the edge 1/2” up on the inside of the top and press. Fold the edge up again, this time 1” up. The frayed edge should be neatly tucked inside and no longer visible. Press, pin in place, and sew close to the top hemmed fold (about an 1” up from the hem).
Voila! Your top is ready to wear!
The boatneck and french darts add a subtle yet sophisticated vintage touch to this blouse that I really love! It fits just right and is the perfect light weight material. I will be wearing this top all summer long!
Outfit Details
Shorts - Ribcage Women’s Shorts from Levi’s in Mother of Pearl
Shoes - Swedish Hasbeens, not available anymore. Here is a similar style.
I hope you enjoyed sewing along with me! If you make this top send me a photo, I’d love to see your creations!
- Jessie